Straight from Versailles, Marie Antoinette's Scent
MELISSA BLOCK, Host:
The 2006 edition was created by an eminent French nose, or perfume creator, Francis Kurkdjian, who joins us from Paris and Mr. Kurkdijian, first the name of the perfume is what?
FRANCIS KURKDJIAN: The name of the perfume is called (speaking foreign language), meaning French trail or aura.
BLOCK: Trail or aura.
BLOCK: The smell that she would be leaving behind her, say, as she walked.
KURKDJIAN: Yes. That's correct.
BLOCK: And would you describe this scent?
KURKDJIAN: It's very difficult to talk about a scent but it's very feminine, kind of a bit powdery, very floral, a bit waxy also because when you have only natural product, the rose gives something kind of waxy and clean at the same time. But the white flowers, what we call white flowers in (unintelligible), orange flower, (unintelligible), gives a depth, something very sensual, at the same time.
BLOCK: Is it musky?
KURKDJIAN: No, it's not really musky because musks were very dirty and Marie Antoinette was very different at her time. She was already a trendsetter because she was very clean because she had a bathroom. She had two bathrooms in Versailles, and she was taking a bath every day. So she'd get rid of the dirtiness that was used during the reign of her (unintelligible) assistants.
BLOCK: And this was something of an innovation, if I remember correctly. The French court was notoriously gamey.
BLOCK: Gamey. Rank. Not clean.
KURKDJIAN: Ah, yes, yes, yes. Hygiene was not something very French, I would say.
BLOCK: When you as the nose here tried to recreate what Marie Antoinette might have smelled like, what did you have to work with?
KURKDJIAN: I was approached by a French historian, (unintelligible), and she found at the French library some original documents returned by (unintelligible). (Unintelligible) is one of the perfumers that Antoinette used to order fragrances from. And Elizabeth found some original formulas and the formulas were the starting point to recreate what we call now the fragrance of Marie Antoinette.
BLOCK: When you were looking at these recipes did you run across anything that you couldn't replicate, that you just sort of had to guess at?
KURKDJIAN: One of the most difficult parts was before the French Revolution, there was no metric system. That came with the French Revolution. So we had to go back to old books to find the correspondency between how they were making perfume at the time and how we did now. That was the first trick. The second trick was about the process to (unintelligible) flowers; it's a bit different now. At the time, they were boiling all the flowers all together and you would get a perfume at the end. Now, we distillate the flowers separately and then we can balance and we can find the right equilibrium between all the notes. So it's a big difference now.
BLOCK: Francis Kurkdjian, thanks for talking to us about your creation of the Marie Antoinette perfume.
KURKDJIAN: Thank you for your call. Goodbye.
BLOCK: That's Francis Kurkdjian, a French perfume creator or nose, and in case you're wondering, the new scent of Marie Antoinette is not cheap. A small bottle, less than an ounce, of (speaking foreign language) costs about $460 and a big one, more than 8 ounces in Baccarat crystal, is more than $10,000. Marie Antoinette wouldn't have it any other way.
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