RENEE MONTAGNE, HOST:
In Hawaii, a battle over the future of a mountaintop - native Hawaiians say it's sacred ground. Astronomers say it's the best place in the world to build a massive 18-story telescope. From Hawaii Public Radio, Molly Solomon reports.
(SOUNDBITE OF CHANTING)
MOLLY SOLOMON, BYLINE: On an overcast morning, barefoot men and women dance hula 9,200 feet above sea level to a song honoring Mauna Kea, the mountain under their feet. Their hips sway to the beat of a drum as they call out in chant to Poli'ahu, one of the many Hawaiian gods that reside in the mountain. Hundreds of protesters who have camped out on Mauna Kea for weeks watch the hula in silence. A gust of wind ruffles an upside-down Hawaiian flag, a sign used to show the state is in distress. Leading the dancers is Vicky Holt Takamine, their kumu hula, or teacher. She felt it was important to come to the mountain in support of the activists - consider the construction of the giant telescope to be a desecration of their sacred land.
VICKY HOLT TAKAMINE: We've been advocating for no more development on Mauna Kea for years. And our words have fallen on deaf ears.
SOLOMON: The $1.4 billion-dollar project would be the 14th and largest observatory on Mauna Kea. Scientists say the telescope would allow astronomers to see 13 billion light years away, going all the way back to the origins of the universe. It could lead to greater knowledge of star formation, dark energy and other fundamental questions of existence.
DOUG SIMONS: I think there's a perception that there's a sort of a disconnect from the observatories to the community.
SOLOMON: Doug Simons is the executive director at Canada-France-Hawaii Telescope. He says astronomy in the islands dates back to 1968 when the first telescopes were built along the slope of the mountain summit. The seven-year process of approving the telescope included public hearings and legal challenges, with two appeals still pending in lower courts. Simons says in all his time working on the Big Island, he's never seen this level of opposition.
SIMONS: Completely unprecedented in the history of Hawaii astronomy - no comparison. And you have to ask yourself, what's the difference? And a lot of people are asking that. What changed since the last time, you know, a big telescope was put up there that has allowed this wedge to be driven in the community?
SOLOMON: The protests, which have attracted international attention, arose from the indigenous rights movement. For many activists on the mountain, Mauna Kea has come to symbolize a fight for native knowledge, land-use and Hawaiian sovereignty. Earlier this month, 31 people were arrested for blocking the road to prevent construction crews from reaching the summit. One of them was 26-year-old Kaho’okahi Kanuha, a preschool teacher at a Hawaiian charter school. He says the battle over five acres atop Mauna Kea is about more than just land. It's about a clash of beliefs.
KAHO'OKAHI KANUHA: Curiosity should not supersede of values and the traditions of the host people and the host culture.
SOLOMON: Kanuha says he's not against the science. He points to his Polynesian ancestors, celestial navigators who charted their course to Hawaii by following the stars.
KANUHA: It's the basis of us - the foundation of people and being able to find new land and create new life. However, we did not desecrate and destroy things to do that.
SOLOMON: And Kanuha says that's the biggest philosophical difference between the protesters on the mountain and supporters of the telescope. For NPR News, I'm Molly Solomon in Honolulu.
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