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It is almost election time in Saudi Arabia, and it is not just men who will be voting. For the first time, women can vote and campaign for seats on local municipal councils. More than 900 women have put themselves forward as candidates. The election is next week, and it's being seen as a small and limited step toward democracy. NPR's Deborah Amos reports from the Saudi capital, Riyadh.
DEBORAH AMOS, BYLINE: This is what change sounds like in Saudi Arabia. It's a political meeting for women. Professors, writers, activists gather to talk about the campaign. There are jugs of strong coffee, a snack table, and smartphones are held close. Everything is new, says Hatoon al-Fassi, a professor and a leading women's rights activist. It's more than getting the vote. It's introducing women in this conservative society into public life.
HATOON AL-FASSI: Being in the public - very frightening, very intimidating - all sorts of things.
AMOS: Is this so hard because it's the first time?
AL-FASSI: Definitely. We're doing things from scratch. We're having baby steps into this world of democracy.
AMOS: Small steps because the obstacles are so huge. The campaign rules are a list of no's - no pictures on campaign literature. Women can't contact voters on the most popular social media channel. They can't talk to men when campaigning in public. Plus, Saudi's chief cleric said that women in politics opens the door to evil. Still, says Fassi, women candidates have braved it all to run.
AL-FASSI: Now we're having about five, six candidates in this room. It was - it's really amazing that they made it to this day.
THORAYA OBAID: (Speaking Arabic).
AMOS: "There are obstacles, of course," says Thoraya Obaid when it's her turn at the microphone. And she should know. Two years ago, Obaid was one of the first women to be appointed by the king to the traditionally all-male National Advisory Council. There was plenty of opposition then. Now it's accepted that women can also advise the king. The right to vote, she says - it's another step.
OBAID: It's an assertion that we are citizens and have rights and that we're exercising our rights just like the men.
AMOS: But unlike men, women are the underdogs. Only 130,000 women registered to vote, compared to more than a million men. Still, Obaid is optimistic. She's had long career as a U.N. official promoting women's rights. She says it often happens that women's lose the first time they get the vote.
OBAID: It's OK. But it's an experience that we have gone through. We learn from it. The society will change by it. Even men will change by it. So in that sense, it is worth going through it.
AMOS: So no going back.
OBAID: No going back.
AMOS: Across the Gulf, monarchies are going forward with limited democracy. The Saudis are following a trend, says Karen Young at the Arab Gulf States Institute in Washington. But change here comes from the top down, and it's cautious. Political parties are still banned. Local councils have little power. Voter registration is low across this region.
KAREN YOUNG: The expectation of participation in governance is so new and so low from the citizen population, many people are - have to be convinced of why they should vote.
AMOS: Why should Saudis vote? Activist Azziza Yousef skipped the women's gathering. She didn't register to vote, and she says she doesn't see the point.
AZZIZA YOUSEF: For the election, I am boycotting the election because I think this is for - just window dressing to give the idea that women have rights in Saudi Arabia.
AMOS: Saudi Arabia is the only place in the world where women are banned from driving. And they need permission from a male guardian, a close relative to travel or to go to college. But despite the restrictions, Saudi women candidates say they have to take this first step. Deborah Amos, NPR News, Riyadh.
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