RENEE MONTAGNE, Host:
NPR's Frank Langfitt filed this report from Nairobi.
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FRANK LANGFITT: This is Thika Road. It's a superhighway running from the Kenyan capital of Nairobi to the city of Thika, and it's being built by three Chinese companies. In some sections, it's 16 lanes across. These Africans never seen anything like it.
P: There is no comparison. This road is a showpiece of the government.
LANGFITT: Peter Ngau teaches urban planning at the University of Nairobi. We're riding down the new highway, which will eventually connect Kenya to neighboring countries. Apartment buildings are already sprouting along the sides of the road.
MONTAGNE: I think immediately, it will increase business activity. It will open a new market for the Kenyan economy. Kenya has not been linked to Ethiopia by a tarmaced road.
LANGFITT: Ethiopia is a major regional economy right next door with 80 million people. Ngau says the highway will also ease some of Nairobi's crippling traffic. The professor drives nine miles down the road each day for class.
MONTAGNE: Right now, in the morning, you take two hours if you are lucky.
LANGFITT: And when the highway is completed...
MONTAGNE: I will expect to take less than 40 minutes to come to work.
LANGFITT: Why are Chinese companies building this superhighway? Aside from profit, Ngau says the highway is a means to a greater end for China.
MONTAGNE: I think Chinese are trying to buy favor. One of the biggest challenges in African countries has been poor infrastructure. They will provide the infrastructure. They buy favor with the African government. African people are happy with them because roads are better with the Chinese.
LANGFITT: Joseph Kieyah is an economist with the Kenya Institute for Public Research and Analysis, a government think tank.
MONTAGNE: China is seeing Kenya as a gateway to the East Africa community. You talk about almost about $75 billion economy, 120 million, you know, people. So it's a huge market.
LANGFITT: Most of the Chinese products are genuine...
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LANGFITT: ...but others end up in this storeroom in downtown Nairobi.
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LANGFITT: There are Staedtler pencils - 2.4 million of them.
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LANGFITT: Yamaha electric guitars.
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LANGFITT: The storeroom is run by Kenya's anti-counterfeit agency. Caspar Oluoch is one of the agency's inspectors.
MONTAGNE: The fakes from China are so rampant in Kenya. I can tell you that. Like, right now, if you take a walk through the streets of Nairobi, you'll find so many fakes there.
LANGFITT: A.G.N. Kamau chairs the country's anti-counterfeit agency. He says he's written to the Chinese Embassy twice about the problem.
MONTAGNE: But we've never received any response up to now.
LANGFITT: Some businesses say Chinese companies get special treatment because China's so powerful. Steve Smith is the recently retired managing director of Eveready East Africa, an affiliate of the U.S. battery giant. Smith says several years ago, Kenya gave a Chinese company a waiver, allowing it to import batteries without paying a mandatory 35 percent duty. Smith says he eventually persuaded the government to reverse the decision, but not before the Chinese company had taken a chunk of his market share.
MONTAGNE: If I look at Kenya, we were in the 75, 80 percent share. Today, we are below 50 percent.
LANGFITT: To offset losses, Eveready did something it had long resisted to cut costs.
MONTAGNE: Our directors, for years, had worked with the government saying we needed to create jobs. Don't automate. But once this happened, we said we had to make this change. And so we have automated our packing line, you know, and a lot of Kenyans lost jobs because of it.
LANGFITT: How many jobs were lost because of this, would you say?
MONTAGNE: In my business, at my factory, it's been in excess of 300 jobs.
LANGFITT: Like their products, the Chinese are a growing presence in Kenya and much of Africa, and that's having an impact on the country's signature resource: wildlife. Every few months, police at Kenya's international airport seize smuggled shipments of elephant ivory.
MONTAGNE: Most of our arrests have been of Chinese origin.
LANGFITT: Patrick Omondi works for the Kenya Wildlife Service. In late April, police caught a Chinese man with more than 200 pounds of ivory traveling through the airport. Omondi says Kenya has been hesitant to raise the issue with the Chinese government.
MONTAGNE: It has to still be sensitive, because we are looking up to China to help us on other things.
LANGFITT: Esmond Bradley Martin studies the trade in elephant ivory and rhino horn. He says both animals are increasingly in danger because prices and demand are growing as China's economy expands.
MONTAGNE: Before, the prices were quite low. And now they're paying up to $100,000 for a pair of black rhino horns.
LANGFITT: Martin says Chinese buy rhino horn to use as a traditional medicine to lower fever.
MONTAGNE: The economy's been growing at 9, 10 percent for some years now. Now, the average Chinese can afford to buy the rhino horn.
LANGFITT: Chinese and Vietnamese demand for rhino horn is now so strong, at least one private reserve in Kenya gave its remaining rhinos to the government. The owner said she could no longer afford to protect the animals from poachers.
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LANGFITT: Overall, do you see the Chinese as a positive influence or a negative influence here in Kenya?
MONTAGNE: Overall, I think it's a positive influence.
MONTAGNE: Because they are providing an element which was very critical bottleneck for development of African countries: infrastructure.
LANGFITT: Frank Langfitt, NPR News, Nairobi.
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MONTAGNE: This is NPR News.
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