Fashion's New 'It' Girl ... And Boy: Andrej Pejic Andrej Pejic — a male model — walks the runway in both menswear and women's wear for top designers. Jean Paul Gaultier kick-started the Bosnian-born model's career by sending him down the runway in a sheer bridal gown last year.

Fashion's New 'It' Girl ... And Boy: Andrej Pejic

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JACKI LYDEN, HOST:

Now we turn to the story of a surprising success in the world of fashion. Androgyny comes and goes in the fashion world, but one male model takes it to the extreme by modeling clothes for both men and women.

Andrej Pejic is gaining notoriety in high fashion, even as most men who bend genders face a tough time in society. NPR's Beenish Ahmed caught up with him at a recent photo shoot for Out magazine.

BEENISH AHMED, BYLINE: In a converted warehouse studio in New York City, Andrej Pejic takes a final sip of his Earl Grey tea. His ivory skin and platinum blonde hair glow as he steps into position against a stark white background. The photographer raises his camera.

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Andrej, keep moving around here.

ANDREJ PEJIC: Yes.

AHMED: Pejic seductively arches his thin frame into four big, buff male models. He angles his baby soft face towards the camera to accentuate his cutting cheekbones.

Brent Coover is fashion editor of Out magazine, which is geared towards a gay and lesbian audience. To him, Pejic's androgynous look means fashion doesn't have to be about macho men any more.

BRENT COOVER: For so long of my life, I had to look at images of male models who are super muscular, super hunky, look like Ken dolls. And maybe it's time to see another concept of what a man can be.

AHMED: Coover thinks models with an ambiguous gender help expand the idea of beauty beyond masculine and feminine archetypes.

Andrej Pejic remembers being pushed to give up playing dress-up in heels and skirts as a child.

PEJIC: I was told that I had to be more boyish and did that social role, but that didn't make me happy and it didn't really work.

AHMED: Pejic was born in Bosnia and fled with his Serbian mother and brother to a refugee camp when the war broke out, then on to Australia. His Croatian father stayed behind.

Pejic started modeling after an agent approached him in a McDonald's he worked at in Melbourne. After graduating from high school, he moved to Europe to pursue modeling full time. One of his first big jobs was for French Vogue.

PEJIC: I just walked on the set and they said put him in a Fendi dress because that's what's going to look good, and they were right.

AHMED: Pejic quickly started to get more work in women's wear than men's and unlike that Fendi dress that just happened to fit, top designers began to make dresses with Pejic in mind.

(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)

AHMED: In this Cinderella story, Pejic's moment at the ball came last year. The eminent and envelope-pushing designer Jean Paul Gaultier sent Pejic down the runway in a sheer bridal gown. He had hardly walked 10 steps when the room burst into applause.

PEJIC: I felt like the happiest bride.

AHMED: And why not? Pejic's career is sort of a fashion fairy tale on fast-forward. Pejic has worked with some of the world's most celebrated designers and he's only 20. He has a serious presence in the industry, but many people outside of it don't know what to make of him.

JEANNE MOOS: How do you prove your pushup bra can push up even the most miniscule bust? Have a man model it.

AHMED: That man, as CNN's Jeanne Moos noted, was none other than Andrej Pejic. He appeared as a buxom blonde in plunging necklines in posters for a bra by Hema, a Dutch dime store. Pejic admits it was sort of a gimmick, but says in the end...

PEJIC: It did work. I think the bra did sell.

ASHLEY MEARS: Fashion models are these desired goods that also lend value to commodities.

AHMED: Ashley Mears worked as a model to inform her book about the inner dealings of the fashion industry. She says the ads Pejic's used in could backfire when consumers learn he's actually a man. That's partly because Pejic plays into one of the biggest criticisms of fashion models - that they're way too thin. And designers only want to showcase women who look like young boys.

Pejic's been called fashion's greatest insult to women, but Mears says Pejic isn't the problem.

MEARS: Fashion has been insulting women for a long time with unrealistic body standards.

AHMED: Pejic's unique ability to go from menswear to women's wear has captivated the world of fashion, but Pejic says he's not out to change the world. He's just doing his job. Up next, he'll be featured in ads for Jean Paul Gaultier's new cologne.

Beenish Ahmed, NPR News, Washington.

LYDEN: If you'd like to see photos of model Andrej Pejic, log onto NPR.org and select TELL ME MORE from the Programs tab.

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