'Middlesteins' Digs Into The Dark Side Of Food A few years ago, you might not have thought that something as basic as the food we eat would become trendy. But that's what's happened. Now a new novel takes on the subject of appetite and excess. Author Meg Wolitzer says The Middlesteins, by Jami Attenberg, is worth picking up.


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'Middlesteins' Digs Into The Dark Side Of Food

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Finally, this hour, a book about kids and parents, specifically about that moment when we first see our parents as the rest of the world sees them, as real people with hopes and fears, remarkable talents and terrible flaws.

Here's reviewer Meg Wolitzer.

MEG WOLITZER, BYLINE: There's so much food in Jami Attenberg's novel "The Middlesteins," reading it is like being on some kind of literary cruise ship. It's a book about excess and appetite, but it's presented thoughtfully and explored sympathetically. Edie Middlestein is the matriarch of a Jewish Midwestern family. She's a big woman. By the end of the book, she's well over 300 pounds.

The other Middlesteins know she's killing herself with food, but they can't stop her. After Edie's husband leaves her, their adult children become even more involved in their parents' lives. The family members interact and overlap, their different wants and needs are the basis for the book's drama. The book is also a beautiful portrait of how a family makes its way in the world.

Sometimes people move together like a shared waltz, other times it feels more like they're shackled. Edie and her daughter Robin have an especially complicated dynamic, this shows in a scene where they go to a Chinese restaurant and Robin sees her mother not through a Middlestein lens, but a new one. Attenberg writes: It was early, not even 5:00 PM, and the restaurant was empty, except for a young Chinese woman sitting before a giant pile of green beans.

The woman rushes toward Edie and they hug. When Edie finally introduces Robin, the woman shakes her hand and says: The schoolteacher. What an honor to have you here. Your mother talks about you all the time. We love your mother. Just love her. She's our hero. Robin was stunned, and a little stung, too, that she had no idea what was going on at that moment. Why is my mother the hero of a Chinese restaurant? Even though Robin doesn't think of her mother as a hero, I'm convinced that she is.

When I started the book, I'll admit I was a little worried. Overweight people often suffer from prejudice and hostility. Would Attenberg be fair to her character? In the end, I'm relieved to say she is. And she doesn't overcompensate by making Edie urgently cuddly or too loveable, either. Instead, she just does what good writers do, which is to make her real. She doesn't have to defend her character, she just has to help us get to know her.

"The Middlesteins" is a tender and funny look at a family and their mother. In fact, it's so readable, it's practically edible.

CORNISH: "The Middlesteins" by Jamie Attenberg, our reviewer is Meg Wolitzer.



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