Gourmands Through The Ages: 'A History Of Food In 100 Recipes' : The Salt From ancient Egyptian bakers to Gordon Ramsay, every era has its foodies. And without them, the history of food would be pretty darn boring, says William Sitwell. His new book chronicles how these epicures shaped our palates, and the recipes they left behind.
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Gourmands Through The Ages: 'A History Of Food In 100 Recipes'

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Gourmands Through The Ages: 'A History Of Food In 100 Recipes'

Gourmands Through The Ages: 'A History Of Food In 100 Recipes'

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A few summers ago, food writer William Sitwell snapped up some cookbooks at a London auction, all from the 1800s. He was struck by how lively and opinionated their authors were.


Making the kinds of claims you'd find in cookbooks today. Take "The Royal Cookery Book", which boasted that it was the greatest compared to, quote, "the perfect uselessness of such cookery books as have hitherto been published."

MONTAGNE: Pouring through those 19th century books transformed William Sitwell into something of a culinary Indiana Jones. And he dug further into the past, all the way back to ancient Egypt, through the most influential foodies from bygone times. The result, "A History of Food in 100 Recipes", his new book celebrating the people and stories behind the cuisine, that helped shape the way we eat today.

William Sitwell joined us from London. Welcome.

WILLIAM SITWELL: Thank you very much.

MONTAGNE: Let's start with one of the first recipes, this from 350 B.C. It was actually recorded in a poem. It's fish baked in fig leaves.

SITWELL: If people think that passionate food is just something new, they need to look back where you come across a man called Archestratus, who was a Sicilian traveling around Asia Minor, eating and getting hold of as much good food as he could possibly get, and then writing down his experiences. Now, he wrote them down in sort of ancient Greek hexameters of which there are fragments were left of the scrolls. And from one of those fragments we've got this recipe, fish baked in fig leaves.

And this man, I mean he was wonderful because he was a real obsessive about the food that you should eat. He wrote: Eat what I recommend; all other delicacies are a sign of abject poverty. He said if you can't get hold of sugar, demand some attic honey - which is Greek honey - 'cause that will set your cake off really well.

MONTAGNE: He also writes: Otherwise one might as well be buried measureless fathoms underground.

SITWELL: It's the sort of thing you get from harsh food critics on TV shows. You say, you know, I'd rather die than to have to eat this muck again. And Archestratus would have been on "MasterChef" these days, you know, if he was around.


MONTAGNE: Let's stick with ancient times and ask you about one more food writer, Marcus Gavius Apicius.

SITWELL: Well, this is an extraordinary story. He wrote a book called "De re Coquinaria," "Of Culinary Matters", that came out in A.D. 10. And this book is still in print. I mean, it's just quite extraordinary. You can get a hold of translations today. And if anyone ever asks you when was the Roman Empire at its strongest, well, actually the answer I think is when its sauces were at its thickest. And its sauces were at its thickest when Apicius was around. And this man was into sauce.

I've had this recipe cooked. It's very decent. And what's amazing about Apicius was, of course, he was very wealthy but he met with a tragic end because he was such a great entertainer that he ran out of money, and he decided that if he couldn't live to the manner in which he had become accustomed, that life then wasn't worth living. So he gave one final feast. We don't know quite what was at that feast - whether he served his pumpkin fritters or his lentil and chestnuts, or his suckling pigs stuffed two ways.

But in the final course - the final dessert, I think it was - he poisoned himself and died (unintelligible).


SITWELL: And I know people who live to eat and I can completely sympathize with his predicament.

MONTAGNE: You do write about the evolution of cooking throughout the book, but also techniques involved. Tell us about a breakthrough in how bread was made.

SITWELL: Well, a lot of people think that 1066 is an important date in English history, because it was the Battle of Hastings.

MONTAGNE: Which was the Norman conquest of England.

SITWELL: That's right. But what people don't seem to focus on is that 1066 was also a very important moment for the history of bread because after 1066, we see the introduction of the hair-sieve, it suggests that people started to refine their bread. They started to sieve their flour so they can make really posh white loaves. And it was a real social symbol, whereas the beggars would eat the bone-crunching brown stuff.

But, of course, things have changed now. People sniffed at white bread. But for many, many years if you served white bread it was like showing someone the latest iPhone.


SITWELL: You know, it was a real fashion accessory.

MONTAGNE: Tell us the story behind hot chocolate, which is certainly one of the more dramatic ones in the book.

SITWELL: Well, one of the greatest meetings in history is between Montezuma, the Aztec king, and Hernan Cortes, the great Spanish conquistador. They met in 1519 just outside what is now Mexico City. And then you've got these two cultures; an incredibly ancient culture and a much more modern European culture, coming face-to-face.

When people say is there a particular moment that actually is a turning point in the history of food, the Spanish conquistadors' conquest of the Aztecs is key because we get back amazing ingredients; not just gold but coffee, tomatoes, turkeys and, of course, we get chocolate. Montezuma, like many great leaders, didn't like to be seen eating. And he used to like to eat alone. But after he had eaten he would then call for chocolate. And his servants would bring out to the great hall chocolate all frothed up.

And it probably would have been quite a bitter thing in those days. I mean, it wouldn't have been the sort of sweet, luxurious thing that we know and love today. Cortes then brought that back to the Spanish court. The Spanish royalty thought it was the most extraordinary thing. They kept their recipe for making chocolate very much under wraps. And then people were also rather dismissive of chocolate, they thought it had rather bad qualities. Someone even said it was a bit addictive. Have you heard that before?

MONTAGNE: You know, you have - moving along in time, you have a recipe for salad dressing - it dates to 1699 - that's very much on the long side; something like 1400 words for a salad dressing recipe.

SITWELL: What I love about this is that John Evelyn, he wasn't just noting down ideas for dressings for salads. He thought about it as a philosophical treatise. And I think this is one of the most beautifully written recipes in history. He talks about let your herby ingredients be exquisitely culled and cleansed of all worm-eaten, slimy spotted or in any way vitiated leaves.

And I love that. It's much nicer than saying first wash your salad leaves. And then he talks about the oil. You know, the oil should be very clean, not too rich or too yellow - a pallid olive green and smooth, light and pleasant upon the tongue. Use vinegar preferably infused with flowers such as nasturtium. He talks about salt must be the best, clean bright and dry. And use a dash of honey or some sugar.

I mean it's fantastic. It's the most beautifully written recipe and actually it's spot on. And I think that's one of the great things about recipes in history, you know, the beauty, the almost poetic resonance that some of these recipes have.

MONTAGNE: Well, it has been a pleasure speaking to you. Thank you very much.

SITWELL: Pleasure, thank you very much.

MONTAGNE: William Sitwell's new book is "A History of Food in 100 Recipes".


MONTAGNE: It's MORNING EDITION from NPR News. I'm Renee Montagne.

INSKEEP: I'm Steve Inskeep.

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