For Restaurant Workers, A Struggle To Put Food On The Table : The Salt Fast food and restaurant work used to be seen as an entry point for the young. Today, the average such employee is 29, and nearly a quarter are parents. For these workers, current wages are hardly enough to support them, let alone their families.
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For Restaurant Workers, A Struggle To Put Food On The Table

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For Restaurant Workers, A Struggle To Put Food On The Table

For Restaurant Workers, A Struggle To Put Food On The Table

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This is MORNING EDITION from NPR News. I'm David Greene.


And I'm Renee Montagne. Good morning. Fast food workers are protesting again today in dozens of cities across the country. It's a movement backed by the big service workers union. The workers are asking for a pay hike to a minimum of $15 an hour and also the right to organize. Traditionally, the food and restaurant industry has been an entry point for young people, who then move up. But these days, according to government figures, those workers are older - on average 29 years old. And NPRs Jennifer Ludden reports, nearly a quarter of them are parents.

JENNIFER LUDDEN, BYLINE: Losia Nyankale is exactly 29. She didn't mean to make a career in the restaurant business. But after two years of college, her schoolteacher mom lost her job and couldn't pay tuition. Then Nyankale's temp gigs in bookkeeping dried up in the recession. So she went back to her stand-by, restaurant work.

LOSIA NYANKALE: I did some kitchen work, the pantries or the salad station. I've also managed, supervised, washed dishes.


LUDDEN: After her waitressing shift in a toney Washington, D.C. neighborhood, Nyankale picks up her five-year-old son from school and her four-year-old daughter from daycare.



LUDDEN: After a bear hug and bathroom break, it's an hour-long trek by metro and bus to a third floor walk-up apartment.


LUDDEN: Nyankale is separated - the children's father take the kids on weekends. She is luckier than many restaurant workers. With tips she can sometimes make $15 an hour. And working just 25 hours a week, she can actually be a mom too.


NYANKALE: D, good job. Now what starts with the letter D?

LUDDEN: But the only way she can make ends meet? Through food stamps and subsidies for rent and childcare. Nyankale tried working more. When the kids were very young she juggled two part-time waitressing jobs, routinely getting off at 1:00 or 2:00 a.m. For cheap childcare at that hour, she went on Craigslist. But the women offering to keep kids in their homes were hit or miss.

NYANKALE: You show up at the door and they're not home. And then you're trying to potty train them and they're not doing anything; you pick up your child and your hand's soaked because their diaper hasn't been changed, you know.

LUDDEN: She tears up thinking about it.

NYANKALE: You know, there were times where I just went to work just to pay for my babysitter.

LUDDEN: In fact, some restaurant workers say they pay more than a third of their income for childcare. That's according to Saru Jayaraman of the Restaurant Opportunities Center, a worker advocacy group. She says most restaurant workers are part-time, which means no paid time off. So when a child gets sick....

SARU JAYARAMA: It creates a real crisis. Basically lose your job and go get your child. Or scramble to try to find some informal care that might be able to go get your child for you.

LUDDEN: Jayaraman supports a bill to raise the minimum wage to just over $10 an hour. So far there is not enough Congressional support to pass that, let alone the $15 an hour that fast food workers are striking for.

SCOTT DEFIFE: Doubling the minimum wage is absolutely, positively going to reduce the number of jobs.

LUDDEN: Scott DeFife is with the National Restaurant Association. He says the industry is proud that a third of all American adults got their start there. DeFife says the part-time work and flexible schedules are a big attraction for many. And he says half those making the lowest minimum wage are teenagers. Above all, DeFife says, the restaurant industry offers opportunity.

DEFIFE: It's there for people who have had, you know, economic difficulties in the past or who may not have finished, you know, four years of a college or university program.

CHRISTOPHER DRUMGOLD: I've been cooking like all my life. My grandmother at like five years old threw me in the kitchen.

LUDDEN: That's Christopher Drumgold of Detroit.

DRUMGOLD: I'm 32. I work at McDonald's. It pays 7.40 and is not enough.

LUDDEN: Seven-forty is Michigan's minimum wage. Drumgold wanted to make a career of cooking. He spent six months at Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Las Vegas. But he worked as an overnight security guard to pay tuition and couldn't keep up with classes. In nearly a decade of restaurant work since, Drumgold's pay has hovered between six and nine dollars an hour. Hardly enough to support himself, he says, let alone his two children.

DRUMGOLD: The daycare I send my kids to, they have an overnight stay. The monthly charge, you know, comes to, like, near $100.

LUDDEN: One hundred for each child, he says. Drumgold says he's constantly behind on bills and must sometimes decide whether to spend what he has on food or rent. He plans to join the marches today, even if the fight for higher wages is a long one. He hopes his kids don't spend their working life in fast food. But if they have to, he says they should be able to make a better living at it than he can. Jennifer Ludden, NPR News.

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