A Decade After Flood's Devastation, Love Keeps New Orleans Afloat New Orleans lost much since Hurricane Katrina, and the failed levees that flooded the city. But Gwen Thompkins says the passions that survived the flood kept her city alive too.
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A Decade After Flood's Devastation, Love Keeps New Orleans Afloat

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A Decade After Flood's Devastation, Love Keeps New Orleans Afloat

A Decade After Flood's Devastation, Love Keeps New Orleans Afloat

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New Orleans marks a decade since Hurricane Katrina. There are new houses, shops and gigantic drainage projects underway. Much of what residents lost will never be recovered. But our friend Gwen Thompkins says that her hometown is filling up on an important resource that can't be weighed or measured.

GWEN THOMPKINS, BYLINE: Want to hear a love story? Lakeya Taylor was walking along Orleans Avenue in downtown New Orleans on Mardi Gras 2007 when she ran into a handsome young man she'd seen around, but had never quite met.

Paul Mazant was walking along Orleans Avenue on Mardi Gras 2007 when he ran into a fetching young woman he'd never quite met. Mazant asked Taylor to lunch, and eight years later we're sitting in her mother's living room, in Gentilly, talking about marriage, the two scoops of brown sugar they call their children and why one of the worst levee failures in U.S. history proved the ultimate matchmaker.

LAKEYA MAZANT: And it's something to tell our kids because until this day, we still go walk for Mardi Gras Day in them same spots. Eight years later, we on this street, Orleans. Mom and Dad met right here in Orleans. This is where we met, in our city that we love, that we believe in.


UNIDENTIFIED SINGER #1: (Singing) To spend one night with you in our old rendezvous and reminisce with you, that's my desire.

THOMPKINS: How cute is that? And yet two years after the flood, Orleans Avenue was anything but cute. The trees were bald. The grass was dead. Almost nobody lived there.

PAUL MAZANT: The Lafitte housing project was closed. I mean, you just had a lot of empty homes, a lot of emptiness altogether. But it was still Mardi Gras.

THOMPKINS: Lakeya and Paul Mazant may have sparked that day because they were both in a wretched place, emotionally and geographically. Katrina and a reported 53 breaches in the city's levee system had ruined their homes and their plans for the future. Lakeya was supposed to be a geriatric nurse. Paul was supposed to rise up the ranks of Lockheed Martin as an electrical engineer. But when more than 1,400 of your neighbors are dead, when your parents are homeless, when the nursing school is shut down and work at Lockheed Martin is on hold, you put your dreams away.


GALACTIC WITH JOHN BOUTTE: (Singing) Dark water, Mr. Twister, the drummer is a fisherman. It's rough, just rough enough, popping that cork 'til we get to the bottom.

P. MAZANT: For me, as soon as the month of August hit, I replayed our whole situation. That's why it's so easy for me to tell it.

THOMPKINS: The Mazants rallied. She's now a buyer for Chevron Oronite, which sells additives for gasoline and other kinds of fuel. And he's a project manager for Entergy, which provides electric power to the Gulf South. But they've been watermarked, and neither can imagine going through life with someone who spent a dry 2005.

L. MAZANT: You can't experience my stories. You don't understand where I've been and where I've come from.

P. MAZANT: And you don't know what it's like to grow up before the storm.

L. MAZANT: Right. But if you're from New Orleans, we kind of grew up the same type of way. I'm from where he's from. And to meet right after the storm - dating, marriage - I know what steps he took because I walked those same steps.


THOMPKINS: Want to hear a love story? Nearly every Saturday night in Marigny, just outside the French Quarter, a crowd gathers on Frenchman Street to hear John Boutte sing. They've been coming to the d.b.a. club for 15 years. And Boutte's may be the only live music show in town where the audience is so quiet, respectful, kind of like church.

JOHN BOUTTE: They definitely give me a whole lot of love, man. Actually, sometimes it's embarrassing. I'm like, you guys really don't know who I am...

THOMPKINS: (Laughter).

BOUTTE: ...If you did, you wouldn't like me so much.

THOMPKINS: Michael Garran is a manager at the club. Since the flood, he's watched Boutte's audience balloon.

MICHAEL GARRAN: In addition to being extremely talented, he is brutally honest and he doesn't put on airs. And he doesn't really kowtow to anyone. A lot of people respect that.

THOMPKINS: The levee failure - as horrific as it was - made Boutte's career. He emerged as one of the city's most likable truth-tellers. In the early days, Boutte's set list included encouraging numbers, like the American songbook classic "Pick Yourself Up," dust yourself off (singing) and start all over again. But he also mocked the former FEMA chief in song and the former president of the United States.

BOUTTE: I did some angry songs like Stevie Wonder's "You Haven't Done Nothing" - we are amazed, but not amused by all the things you say that you'll do. That's how I felt.

THOMPKINS: Boutte lost most of his possessions in the floodwater. But fortune smiled when one of his original compositions became the theme song to the HBO series "Treme." At 56 years old, he's now a first-time homeowner. But Boutte calls these past 10 years the best and worst of his life. Next weekend, after a brief summer hiatus, he's scheduled to return to his audience on Frenchmen Street. Then, and only then, will Boutte know what kinds of songs to sing.

BOUTTE: It depends on whether I'm having a flashback...


BOUTTE: ...Of the last 10 years. I might sing something like "A Change Is Gonna Come," you know, to remind myself that nothing's permanent. Then there's days where I'm feeling good, and I want to sing something like "Back In Your Own Backyard," a bird with feathers of blue is waiting for you in your own backyard. You know, you don't have to go looking anywhere else. This is your place, you know, and you can find it here if you help make it here.


THOMPKINS: Want to hear a love story? The house next to mine in Pontchartrain Park has been gutted and empty for 10 fallow years; that is, until somebody recently bought it. And every day for more than a week, the new owners have dispatched a workman to repair the interior. He's from Mississippi. I can't understand what he says most of the time. But this man loves to work.

WILLIE BLACKMORE: My name is Willie.


BLACKMORE: Yeah. Willie Blackmore.

THOMPKINS: Blackmore, like B-L-A-C-K...


THOMPKINS: ...M-O-R-E, Blackmore.

BLACKMORE: Yeah, yeah.

THOMPKINS: How long have you been doing this kind of work?

BLACKMORE: Well, it's been going on for about 10 years, ever since Katrina.



THOMPKINS: Well, Katrina has given you a lot of work then.

BLACKMORE: A lot of work.

THOMPKINS: I'm crazy about him - or more specifically, I admire what he's doing next door. That's because real recovery happens where most people don't notice - on a lunch date, singing along to a headliner in a club and in working 12 days in a row to make sure somebody's house gets fixed the right way.

By my count, three kinds of love are keeping New Orleans afloat - love of family, love of culture, love of work. That's what makes being here exciting - not yesterday, not tomorrow, but right now. I'm Gwen Thompkins.


UNIDENTIFIED SINGER #2: (Singing) We are living the eternal now. The pastor's gone, the future is tomorrow. The babies laugh. Old folks slow down. Maybe the moment is talking to you now. Maybe - maybe love is talking to you right now.

SIMON: Gwen Thompkins hosts the program Music Inside Out at member station WWNO. You're listening to WEEKEND EDITION from NPR News.

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