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Our next story takes us to a country where there isn't much public space to be creative. When you hear about Saudi Arabia, it's rarely an exploration of art, but of oil, regional politics or palace intrigue. It doesn't mean that creativity isn't happening. As we hear in our series Muslim Artist, Now, you have to know where to look for it. NPR's Leila Fadel spent time with artists in Jeddah and sent this report.
LEILA FADEL, BYLINE: Arwa al-Naimi's latest art project is called the drop zone, named after the vertical free-fall amusement park ride.
ARWA AL-NAIMI: It's so scary (laughter).
FADEL: The work is made up of photographs and videos from a park in her hometown in southern Saudi Arabia.
AL-NAIMI: All of the project is secret. Nobody know I'm photograph. It's not allowed.
FADEL: The rules there have become so strict on women that the park has signs telling them they can't scream loudly.
AL-NAIMI: You cannot screaming. They put the label in each...
FADEL: You can't put scream on that? That looks scary.
AL-NAIMI: You cannot scream. We have a limit. You can hear the voice of the ladies. It's like (gasping). They cannot scream.
FADEL: In the video, they try to stifle their screams.
AL-NAIMI: You can hear the limit of the voice.
FADEL: In another part of the project, she shows women gleefully driving bumper cars because in Saudi Arabia, women can't drive. It's a way to push the many boundaries that exists in the country she loves. She sees herself a bit like the court jesters of old.
AL-NAIMI: Always, they say the truth, but they make you laugh. That's my way, too. I say the truth but make you laugh.
FADEL: She's married to Ahmed Mater, who's one of Saudi Arabia's most influential artists. Like his wife, he works in a variety of media - sculpture, video, photography. His work has been shown in Italy, Paris and at the British Museum in London. In Jeddah, he and his wife, Arwa, are a bit of an artist power couple.
AHMED MATER: (Speaking Arabic).
AL-NAIMI: (Speaking Arabic).
FADEL: Their studio is a gathering space for creatives, something like Gertrud Stein's salon in Paris in the 1920s, except this is Saudi Arabia today, where anything that challenges the accepted religious and political norms is generally done behind closed doors.
MATER: It's a gathering. It's, like, a place where we usually chat about art...
FADEL: Ahmed Mater.
MATER: ...And talk and create and think about what we can do in the future. It's like meeting point.
UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN: (Speaking Arabic).
MATER: (Speaking Arabic).
FADEL: Every night, architects, filmmakers, musicians and artists gather and exchange ideas. Sometimes they stay here well past midnight. This is a tradition that dates back thousands of years to a time where gatherings of intellectuals and artists were commonplace.
MATER: I actually take this idea from Hijaz people. I mean Jeddah, Mecca. They have this idea of Majlis, where people have one day in the week that people can come and gather and talk about what's happening around, what the intellectual things happening in the political side.
FADEL: Today, this space is unique in a country where there are no cinemas, live theaters or public spaces where genders can mix and exchange ideas freely. Ahmed Mater shows me around the studio where his gatherings are held in a converted home.
MATER: The library is very important.
FADEL: The couple has built a substantial library of books they've collected on their travels. There are novels, books about art, religion, history and a little library of films. Musical instruments are tucked beneath the shelves. Like the salon, this kind of library is unique in Jeddah.
MATER: We didn't have art library here. We cannot find.
FADEL: So you keep it open for other artists?
MATER: Yeah, of course, especially from 9 to 5 every day, it's open for anyone, especially from school or university.
FADEL: But how do they know about you - like, word-of-mouth, or...
MATER: Word-of-mouth is the best.
FADEL: What the couple is doing is not illegal, but they don't want to draw too much attention, so the studio is unmarked. They have a simple model for those who come. You need to know one person who visits the studio, and you must be tolerant. That's not to say there aren't public spaces for art in Saudi Arabia. There are nearly 60 art galleries across the country.
Jeddah was home to Saudi's first-ever art show in modern times in 1965. Then, the scene was vibrant - cinema, music, live theater. But in the late 1970s, a conservative religious establishment took control of the country's social life and education. Today, every piece of art that's shown publicly must first pass the government's muster. But Qaswra Hafez, a gallery owner in Jeddah, says things are slowly changing.
QASWRA HAFEZ: The shell remains to be conservative. Don't forget, 70-plus percent of the population is under 30 years old who have spent their lives with communications and the Internet and digital media, and they have access to the world in the palm of their hands.
FADEL: And the younger generation is drawing on its cultural pass to create art. As midnight nears, one of its exemplars, Mohamed Hashem, shows up.
MOHAMED HASHEM: (Speaking Arabic).
FADEL: He has an Oud slung over his should, a Middle Eastern lute. He's dressed in long jean shorts, a button-up shirt and square-rimmed hipster glasses. He begins to play, and the others clap and praise God.
HASHEM: (Singing in Arabic).
FADEL: Hashem's one of the most respected Oud players in the country, and he clings to the tradition of music from his hometown, Mecca, where the Muslim religious pilgrimage brought influences from all over the world.
HASHEM: (Singing in Arabic).
FADEL: He draws from traditions that date back hundreds of years. he learned them in his grandmother's living room, where she had cultural salons of musicians and poets in mixed company, both men and women. It was a different time, a time that is all but forgotten.
HASHEM: (Singing in Arabic).
FADEL: But the 30-year-old hopes to revive it.
HASHEM: (Speaking Arabic).
FADEL: "Art," he says, "come from our history." Leila Fadel, NPR News, Jeddah.
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