Why Miami Cubans Roast Christmas Pigs In A 'China Box' : The Salt La caja China is a device inspired by Chinese rail workers in Cuba. And in Miami, it has become the de rigueur way to cook the traditional Noche Buena pig roast. Only in America.

Why Miami Cubans Roast Christmas Pigs In A 'China Box'

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ROBERT SIEGEL, HOST:

In Latin American cultures, tonight is known as Noche Buena. It's the time for big family celebrations, and dinners often feature a pig roast. Now, there are lots of ways to cook a whole pig. But a Noche Buena parties in South Florida, they have a special technique. NPR's Greg Allen says the Cuban meal involves a China box.

GREG ALLEN, BYLINE: We'll get to the China box in a minute. But for a Noche Buena party, the first thing you need is a big. Vegetarians may want to leave the room at this point. Matadero Cabrera is a ranch with pigs lambs and goats on the outskirts of Hialeah, a Miami suburb. Bobby Damas drove nearly an hour from the next county to reserve his pig - a 70-pounder, butchered and dressed for Noche Buena. Like every other customer there, he said there's really just one way to roast a pig.

BOBBY DAMAS: We have a China box - a la caja China - and we put her in the night before we season it, and we get her ready. And we just pop her in four hours before dinnertime, and that's it.

ALLEN: Damas says it's the centerpiece of a traditional Cuban Noche Buena dinner - roast pork, black beans and rice, bread and that's about it. The China box, in Spanish la caja China, is a plywood box lined with aluminum. It's 4-feet long, 2-feet wide and 20-inches deep. The whole pig goes inside. The lid is a metal tray that holds charcoal. It's simple, Damas says, and efficient.

DAMAS: You sit there and you just watch it cook. When she's pretty much done, you flip her over and you - some people - there's different methods, but some people score the skin, like, I put saltwater on it. I let the skin get crunchy. Once that's done, you basically just pull it out and cut her up.

ALLEN: Especially among Cuban-Americans, a key part of Noche Buena celebrations is the China box. But it began just 30 years ago, and not in Cuba but in Florida.

ROBERTO GUERRA: Here's where we do all of the metal. Right here, they're attaching the aluminum to the sides.

ALLEN: Roberto Guerra started La Caja China in 1985 with his father. The factory recently moved to a new location in Hialeah, where workers cut the wood and metal and assemble the nine models the company sells. As to the name, Guerra says his father saw his first China boxes in Havana in 1955. He was in that city's Chinatown, making deliveries for his business, when he saw people roasting a pig in something he had never seen before.

GUERRA: Basically, it was a box with metal on top with the charcoal. So he went over to find out what was going on and explain it to him. He tasted, he loved it and he left. Then 30 years later, 1985, he mentioned it to us.

ALLEN: Guerra and his father named the box for the neighborhood where he first saw it. The two made a prototype and spent a year testing it, developing recipes and determining cooking times. Guerra says at the time, he owned an export business and really didn't believe in the product he helped invent. He thought of it more as a hobby for his father. Everything changed though in 2003. A Miami chef asked Guerra to lend him five China boxes for the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, an annual event that attracts foodies from around the country. Guerra sent the China boxes but wasn't planning on going himself. He says his friend, the chef, forced him to go.

GUERRA: When I got there, there was a whole bunch of famous chefs waiting in line just to talk to me about how good the box was. And that's the time and the day that I realized that I had something good.

ALLEN: A few months later, The New York Times ran an article about La Caja China. Then came TV appearances with Bobby Flay, Al Roker and Martha Stewart. The China box was famous. Now Guerra says la caja China sells itself.

GUERRA: You buy a box. You have 25, 30 people over. They see it, they touch it, they taste it from it.

ALLEN: Right right, throughout South Florida and in Latino households throughout the country, pigs are roasting in China boxes. When they come out, Guerra guarantees they'll be perfect. Greg Allen, NPR News, Miami.

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