Birmingham Chefs Test Appetite For New Flavors With Supper Clubs : The Salt Pop-up dining experiences are cropping up across the country. While diners savor an exclusive meal, chefs get to try out recipes and gauge the local market for their food before opening a restaurant.
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Birmingham Chefs Test Appetite For New Flavors With Supper Clubs

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Birmingham Chefs Test Appetite For New Flavors With Supper Clubs

Birmingham Chefs Test Appetite For New Flavors With Supper Clubs

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It is not easy to make it in the restaurant industry. You need talent, you need money and you need people who like your food. So what do you do if you only have two of those things?

Ashley Cleek of member station WBHM has this story from Birmingham, Ala.

ASHLEY CLEEK, BYLINE: It's a Saturday night. Five couples sit sipping champagne, cocktails and beers. From the kitchen, the smell of ginger, fish oil and lime crowds into the dining room. Chef Josh Haynes carries out one of his signature recipes.

JOSH HAYNES: This is a red curry of pumpkin and pork rib.


CLEEK: It's like a hip, ethnic restaurant, except this is Josh's apartment. His travel books are on the shelves, his shoes by the door. And in his small living room, with space for only two tables, 10 strangers eat his homemade Thai food. Haynes calls them speakeasy supper clubs, a nod to the days of prohibition. People hear about the dinners through word of mouth or a local food blog. They buy tickets online and then show up to Haynes apartment at an appointed time. It's Fred Rowe's first try.

FRED ROWE: Where else can you get just a new experience...

CLEEK: Right.

ROWE: ...With new people, people you don't even know.


ROWE: So that's appealing to us.

UNIDENTIFIED WOMAN #2: That's what we (inaudible).

CLEEK: Mary Jones has been to several speakeasy-style dinners held by other chefs in their homes.

MARY JONES: We just jump and go and try to support them so that they will know that yes, there is that interest for that type of cuisine here in Birmingham. It's not too out there.

CLEEK: Haynes moved back to Birmingham with plans of opening a Thai restaurant. He didn't have the money, and he didn't want to deal with licensing and the health department. So he opened up his home.

HAYNES: So the idea is to open a restaurant, but in the meantime, it's really important to me to kind of build a following and get a lot of support, as well as, you know, getting people's feedback so that when I get to that brick-and-mortar stage and I open the doors I've got people who are excited, who are lined up, ready to eat.

CLEEK: So far, it's working. All his dinners have sold out. And other chefs have taken the same route as Haynes - opening up their homes to willing diners. Over the past several years, Birmingham's growing food scene has gotten national attention. Kelly Dobkin is a senior editor at Zagat, a guidebook to restaurants worldwide. She says this exchange of young chefs inviting diners for exclusive meals is mutually beneficial.

KELLY DOBKIN: The chefs are getting this chance to be creative and free without a lot of strings. The diners are getting to experience something that's limited time only, which is really exciting.

CLEEK: Dobkin says she's seen these types of restaurants succeed. In Brooklyn, the supper club Take Root morphed into a highly reviewed and hard to get into restaurant. Secretive supper clubs are popping up across the country, from Los Angeles to Detroit and Atlanta.

Chris Hastings has been a chef in Birmingham for decades. And he's won one of the most prestigious awards in the restaurant business. Hastings holds open the door to his new restaurant, Oven Bird.

CHRIS HASTINGS: How y'all doing?

UNIDENTIFIED MAN: Hi, how are you?

HASTINGS: Good to have you all in.


CLEEK: Hastings has trained a lot of chefs, including Haynes. And he says while things have changed a lot in the restaurant scene, it's still difficult to open a restaurant and even harder to stay open.

HASTINGS: The failure rate's pretty high in the restaurant business. I mean, it's a business and it's very complicated and it's very expensive and your margins are teeny, teeny, teeny, weenie. And you have to have equal parts passionate chef and cook to business person.

CLEEK: But, Hastings says, if these new chefs can get the business down, diners are ready and waiting for whatever's thrown at them. Haynes' Thai dinners have gotten pretty popular, so he started hosting them once a week, and he's got his eye on a building downtown. For NPR News, I'm Ashley Cleek in Birmingham, Ala.

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