ARI SHAPIRO, HOST:
Not many bartenders have entire books written about them. Sunny Balzano wasn't just any bartender, though. His modest watering hole in Red Hook, Brooklyn, was a throwback to another time. Its spirit is captured in the book "Sunny's Nights," published just a few weeks ago and just in time. Sunny Balzano died last night at the age of 81. NPR's Joel Rose talked with him and the author of "Sunny's Nights" and has this appreciation.
JOEL ROSE, BYLINE: There are plenty of bars in New York that will you serve you a $15 artisanal cocktail. Sunny's is not one of them. The main attraction was always Sunny Balzano himelf.
SUNNY BALZANO: I still don't know how to mix drinks, do I? I don't how to mix drinks.
ROSE: Sunny was tall and lanky. His long hair had gone silver. It was his easy laugh and endless supply of stories that drew customers to his remote corner of Red Hook, Brooklyn. The only signpost was three letters jutting out from the facade - B-A-R. Writer Tim Sultan discovered it by accident in the winter of 1995. When he opened the door, he saw a dozen men looking directly at him.
TIM SULTAN: So I stepped in. And it turned out the reason they were all looking at me was because there was a movie screen right next to the front door, and they were watching an old movie in black and white, a movie of the Martha Graham Dance Company dancing to "Appalachian Spring."
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "APPALACHIAN SPRING, MVT. 7")
SULTAN: And I thought, well, this is a curious, unexpected situation I've stumbled into.
ROSE: Over the years, Sunny's also hosted art classes and literary readings. It certainly wasn't a typical bar in a rundown neighborhood on the Brooklyn waterfront. But when Sunny Balzano was born right next door, Red Hook was home to a thriving port and ship-building industry.
BALZANO: There used to be 10,000 people that worked across the street, and we were the closest restaurant and bar. And we were one of - I think it was, like, 40. This is the only one left of all of the old ones, you see?
ROSE: Sunny left the neighborhood when he was 17 for the Air Force. After his discharge, he tried acting and painting, lived in India for a while before returning to Red Hook to find the neighborhood changed drastically.
BALZANO: Oh, there was a time where, when I first came back, they were wild dogs in the street. And every night, every other night or once a week at least, whoever it was that did that would steal cars, and they would burn the cars on the corner. They would set them on fire and - it was outlaw.
ROSE: Sunny's uncle ran the bar then. When he died, Sunny took over, and he closed it down except for Friday nights. But less turned out to be more, and business took off. Writer Tim Sultan became a regular at Sunny's, then a bartender, mostly to hear Sunny stories. Sultan compiled the best of them into his new book, "Sunny's Nights."
SULTAN: Sunny makes for a very striking figure, but he also had a roguish personality. (Laughter) I don't know what the hell that means.
ROSE: Well, he was married a few times and divorced. He had some run-ins with mobsters and with the city of New York over the bar's liquor license. These days, Sunny's is open legally six nights a week. The crowd and the neighborhood have changed again. You'll find more hipsters than longshoremen, but the bar still reflects the way Sunny looked at life and his calling.
BALZANO: Just to make a person feel good, better than what it is they felt - that is my job as a bartender. And they become better than what they are, sometimes magnificently better than what they are.
ROSE: When I met Sunny, the ability to mix a fancy cocktail was still not a requirement to work behind his bar.
BALZANO: I trust you. There's something about you that is very trusting, you know? I mean, you want to bartend here?
ROSE: It was a tempting offer, but Sunny Balzano died before I could make up my mind. Joel Rose, NPR News, New York.
(SOUNDBITE OF SONG, "ONE SCOTCH, ONE BOURBON, ONE BEER")
AMOS MILBURN: (Singing) Please, Mr. bartender, listen here. I don't want no trouble, so have no fear - one scotch, one bourbon, one beer, one scotch, one bourbon, one beer.
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