Starry Kitchen Cookbook: The Rocky Journey Of A Famed Underground Restaurant : The Salt Nguyen and Thi Tran started Starry Kitchen out of desperation. Now the couple has a new book with their best recipes and stories of their adventures in the culinary world.
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Starry Kitchen Cookbook: The Rocky Journey Of A Famed Underground Restaurant

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Starry Kitchen Cookbook: The Rocky Journey Of A Famed Underground Restaurant

Starry Kitchen Cookbook: The Rocky Journey Of A Famed Underground Restaurant

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  • <iframe src="" width="100%" height="290" frameborder="0" scrolling="no" title="NPR embedded audio player">
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I'm Ari Shapiro in a residential neighborhood just outside of Los Angeles, where we are on our way to meet the masterminds behind "Starry Kitchen." What is "Starry Kitchen"?

NGUYEN TRAN: It's my wife's favorite cooking show from Hong Kong.

THI TRAN: It was just a Hong Kong cooking show. And they bring different, like, celebrities on and then - you know, I guess that's why they call it "Starry Kitchen" - like, stars, you know?

N. TRAN: Oh, I never thought about that.


UNIDENTIFIED MAN: (Foreign language spoken).

SHAPIRO: After the economy crashed in 2008, Nguyen Tran and his wife, Thi, opened a secret, illegal restaurant in their apartment. And they called it Starry Kitchen, named after their favorite Cantonese cooking show. Their restaurant won a national following, with glowing write-ups in major newspapers and food magazines.

And now they are the chefs, business owners and authors behind a sort of memoir cookbook. It's called "Adventures In Starry Kitchen: 88 Asian-inspired Recipes From America's Most Famous Underground Restaurant." Asian-inspired is a wide umbrella. They put an irreverent spin on recipes from spicy Korean noodles to chicken-fried steak.

N. TRAN: But it's right next to the Japanese curry, which I thought would be really good. So that would make it Asian. I mean look; we're American, and you know the thing that I really respect from a lot of chefs and cooks we've met is that you can only draw from what you know. And we grew up in Texas.

SHAPIRO: So you grew up eating hamburgers and hot dogs. How do your parents feel about the fact that now you're making Asian food and, you know, creating these dishes that are if not what they grew up eating, at least kind of an homage to it?

N. TRAN: There are two answers to that. One is, they're very thankful that I came around 'cause I rejected it for so long that they gave up on me. And the other side of it is that they are also slightly mortified because I grew up with them managing 7-Elevens for three or four decades. And my mom literally told me when I opened a restaurant, I'm sorry to see you're going through it, but I'm glad to see that you understand now.

SHAPIRO: So on the one hand, they must be thrilled that you are known for something that is yours and you've created your own company that is successful and popular. And on the other hand, you're working six, seven days a week. You're in the kitchen. (Laughter) They must be a little bit conflicted.

N. TRAN: They're very conflicted because we still deal with it day to day. Even now, like, we were broke, like, two weeks ago. And me and my wife were still questioning even amidst all of the success and the PR and publicity. It still vacillates between success and, like, drowning in failure. It's not easy.

SHAPIRO: Nguyen and Thi Tran no longer operate illegally out of their house. They now have two dogs and a 1-year-old son who you can hear in the background.


SHAPIRO: They invited us over to make some of their most popular recipes, including the deceptively simple-sounding dish that made them famous - crispy tofu balls.

When you think of the signature dish of a popular restaurant, I don't think that tofu balls would be sort of the obvious go-to. Why tofu balls?

N. TRAN: For the very reason and the tone of your voice and the slight amount of condescension...

SHAPIRO: (Laughter).

N. TRAN: No, no, but that's - no, but that - your question is the exact reason why it is - because no one expects it to be and because it's fun, and it's green, and it's crunchy.

SHAPIRO: At their current restaurant, Button Mash, the whole process takes four days. The cookbook gives you some shortcuts to do it at home. First comes tofu pressed overnight to squeeze out the water. It goes into a food mill where it gets ground into a creamy paste.


N. TRAN: I, too, think grinding tofu is very funny.


N. TRAN: Looks like spaghetti or something.

SHAPIRO: Wow, yeah.

N. TRAN: Or, like - it looks like ground meat - is what it really looks like.

SHAPIRO: Yeah. So we're mixing together the pressed tofu which has been ground up, the scallions, the corn and the mushroom bullion...

N. TRAN: And the two pinches of white pepper...

SHAPIRO: ...And pinches of white paper.

N. TRAN: ...Which I still have. So I'm going to throw it in. Yeah, we're going to roll these, actually. That's what I'm going to do.

SHAPIRO: Let's roll.

Thi joins us to roll the tofu into balls, dip them into a flour and water mixture, then coat them in crispy, green rice. She estimates that between the restaurant pop-ups and festivals, they've churned out more than a million tofu balls over the last eight years. Now when her friends ask her to make some, she has the perfect answer.

T. TRAN: Recently my friend was like, hey, can you make me balls? I was like, yeah. Why don't you read a book and...

SHAPIRO: (Laughter) Make it yourself.

T. TRAN: ...Press the tofu. She's like, how do you press the tofu? I was like, you need to read the instructions.


T. TRAN: I was like, I'll make new stuff. I don't want to make the same stuff over and over.

SHAPIRO: Do you know how many you personally have eaten?

N. TRAN: No, but maybe - I don't know, maybe like a thousand or 2,000 tofu balls.

SHAPIRO: I guess what I'm wondering is, is this food that the world is enchanted by now something that you've eaten so much of and cooked so many of that you would prefer to never see another one again?

N. TRAN: No. That's absolutely not true. I would love to see them and eat them all the time. We've come to the point in our career where, like - Gloria Gaynor will now sing "I Will Survive," and she's fine with it...


GLORIA GAYNOR: (Singing) I will survive. Oh, as long as I know how to love, I know I'll stay alive.

N. TRAN: ...Where you can sing it and be like, you know what? I get paid for this, and that is great - not the, I'm not a one trick pony. We were that, like, two years in - like, we're like, come on. We make other stuff that's just as good.

SHAPIRO: And now you've owned your destiny that you will forever be associated with tofu balls.

N. TRAN: Correct.

SHAPIRO: I can vouch that they do make other things that are just as good. During our afternoon together, we also made Singapore chili crab with beer buttermilk beignets to sop up the spicy sauce. The recipes are in the cookbook. They're involved but worth a try - anyway, back to the tofu balls. After a dip in the fryer, he squirts on some Sriracha mayonnaise. They're pink and green, crunchy and creamy.

The thing that I keep coming back to is, it's not hard to find delicious food, but it's hard to find delicious food that's unlike anything you've ever eaten anywhere else. And this is totally unlike any food I've ever had. And it's also delicious.

N. TRAN: I'm like, we eat a lot of food, right? Why would we go out there and make food to make money? We could honestly do other things. If we're going to do it, we've got to be happy with it, number one. Number two, we've got to try to make something that's nothing like anything else we've eaten. And this is our attempt to do that.

SHAPIRO: Nguyen Tran and Thi Tran, thank you for re-creating "Starry Kitchen" for a day here in your own kitchen. This has been really fun.

N. TRAN: Thank you so much for having us.

T. TRAN: Yes, same here. Now go wash the dishes.


SHAPIRO: The book is "Adventures In Starry Kitchen: 88 Asian-inspired Recipes From America's Most Famous Underground Restaurant."


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